mixed, dry, multi-pitch - ice climbing level 4

mixed, dry, multi-pitch

ice climbing level 4
Level 4

Over 30 years ago, mixed climbing was developed as the new limit of what is technically possible on ice and rock. The iceGuides often carry out this activity and have several first ascents of mixed routes on their account. Climbing with the ice tools on the rock is called "dry tooling". A combination of several techniques with targeted training ultimately allows the ambitious ice climber to realise such "king lines". Over the last years, the area of the Hohe Tauern and especially the Felbertauern has grown to one of the most important ice and mixed climbing areas of the Eastern Alps, not only because of the icefalls, but also through the newly developed mixed routes.

 

Success in mixed climbing depends much more on a sophisticated technique than on pure ice climbing. That's why climbing techniques are at the top of the agenda in this course. In addition, different aspects concerning rock and ice with different safety methods are trained.

 

The iceGuides mountain guides are excellent ice and mixed climbers as well as very good instructors. Though you don't pay to see them climb beautifully and in a difficult level, but rather to learn how to climb beautifully and hard yourself - that's the difference that makes us different!

 

If the dates given by us are not possible, we can of course offer the same programme on other dates!

  • gripping and climbing techniques in the mixed & tool area
  • knowledge of different exercises and training methods
  • hazards and precautions in the mixed area
  • handling mobile safety devices
  • mixed in multi-pitch climbing
  • climbing M6-M7

Relation

:

Difficulty

Minimum Price

€ 405,00

Dates

Program

day 1

  • meeting point in the Matrei Tauernhaus at 8:30 am
  • check of equipment and discussion of course goals
  • access to the ice park (approx. 20 min.)
  • repetition of safety techniques
  • repetition of climbing techniques
  • special technique and use of crampons
  • special technique and use of ice tools
  • motion sequences
  • tactics
  • hazards and precautions in the mixed area

day 2

  • carrying out what has been learned on a multi-pitch mixed tour, or
  • intensifying the learned in the ice park and using mobile safety means, or
  • in the ice park, repeating the course of a multi-pitch tour in the ice and carrying it out

location / meeting point / how to get there


The Level 1 - Climbing Course takes place in the Ice Park East Tyrol (if otherwise it will be announced at registration). Meeting point is the Matrei Tauernhaus.

In order to keep the prices manageable, the individual course participants are responsible for the journey to the destination and necessary drives during the course. On top of that, it allows you to be flexible and to undertake further activities, such as ski tours in East Tyrol.

    sleeping / food

    Accommodation and food are not included in the price. However, in addition to the ideal base for the East Tyrolean Ice Park, the Matrei Tauernhaus, there are plenty of accommodation options in Matrei or other places in East Tyrol. We recommend you book the accommodation early enough, as especially in the high season (Christmas, February - March), places are often fully booked.

     

    The tourist information office Matrei in East Tyrol is at your disposal for further information.

    Lastly, do not forget a snack (e.g. sweets, power bars, etc.) and liquid for the day. We recommend to bring warm drinks in a thermos.

     

    You can reach the The Ice Park East Tyrol and the Matrei Tauernhaus in:

    • 30 min. from Lienz (35 km)
    • 50 min. from Kitzbühel (55 km)
    • 50 min. from Zell am See (50 km)
    • 1.5 h from Spittal an der Drau (110 km)
    • 2 h from Salzburg (150 km)
    • 2 h from Innsbruck (145 km)
    • 2.5 h from Munich / Germany (180 km)
    • 3.5 h from Graz (320 km)
    • 4 h from Nuremberg / Germany (450 km)
    • 4.5 h from Vienna (445 km)

    Landerl

    12.57490649999999732245 46.93419811699035903985 : 27.09.2017 12:42 7 0 0 0 0 Landerl Tirol fileadmin/res/images/content/marker-hotel.png //maps.google.at/maps?q=Nr.%2038%2B9971%2BHuben /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=7&cHash=cb9534b3b22413c7876c3b874dfc29a4

    Camping Edengarten

    12.54008390000001327280 46.99534851702677684671 : 27.09.2017 12:42 8 0 0 0 0 Camping Edengarten Tirol fileadmin/res/images/content/marker-hotel.png //maps.google.at/maps?q=Edenweg%2015a%2B9971%2BMatrei%20in%20Osttirol /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=8&cHash=75b911104e8d31a5ed80433f28054070

    Eispark Osttirol

    12.49648590000003878231 47.11904861710065972602 : 27.09.2017 10:55 2 0 0 0 0 Eispark Osttirol Tirol //maps.google.at/maps?q=Tauer%2022%2B9971%2BMatrei /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=2&cHash=290b3c1830a2b7473aa2e75805cb05f5

    Hotel Hinteregger

    12.53823299999999107968 47.00160081703049996804 : 27.09.2017 12:43 4 0 0 0 0 Hotel Hinteregger Tirol fileadmin/res/images/content/marker-hotel.png //maps.google.at/maps?q=Hintermarkt%204%2B9971%2BMatrei%20in%20Osttirol /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=4&cHash=5cef01f589503da541d9213df989c033

    Hotel Outside

    12.53824870000005375914 46.99988281702945158713 : 27.09.2017 12:41 6 0 0 0 0 Hotel Outside Tirol fileadmin/res/images/content/marker-hotel.png //maps.google.at/maps?q=Virgener-Stra%C3%9Fe%203%2B9971%2BMatrei%20in%20Osttirol /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=6&cHash=d4848560cf452c8fde947d23b07c9014

    Felbertauernstüberl

    12.53205590000004576723 47.02225701704280425020 : 27.09.2017 11:39 5 0 0 0 0 Felbertauernstüberl Tirol fileadmin/res/images/content/marker-hotel.png //maps.google.at/maps?q=Kaltenhaus%2024%2B9971%2BMatrei%20in%20Osttirol /en/ice-climbing-courses/eiskletterkurs?tx_courses_course%5Baction%5D=show&tx_courses_course%5Bcontroller%5D=Course&tx_courses_course%5Bpoi%5D=5&cHash=5b6072e45ea5dad65e63acd31a986e2e

    apparel and equipment list

    Technical material is NOT included in the price (10€/person/day)

    Since we do not climb constantly, there can be "standing times" in cold temperatures, so make sure to bring along enough warm clothes - one cools down quite quickly!

    We recommend you bring light clothing of varying thickness to achieve an "onion system" for greater comfort. Cotton is not suitable as it quickly becomes cold upon getting wet. Skiing apparel, however, works well. Our recommendation: warm merino underwear and a fast warming down jacket.

    We recommend:

    • long underwear (bottom and top), synthetic, merino or wool
    • warm pants (lined or fleece)
    • warm fleece or long sleeve shirt (not cotton)
    • lined jacket or vest, preferably down jacket
    • waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)
    • waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)
    • socks (merino or ski socks)
    • woolen cap or lined cap that protects your ears and fits under a helmet
    • waterproof climbing gloves (2 pairs)
    • solid mountain boots (in exceptional cases ski boots are also possible)
    • gaiters if necessary
    • Buff (neck protection)
    • a minimum 25 litre backpack (space for clothing, snacks, drinks, climbing equipment)
    • sun protection (glasses and cream)
    • thermos or water bottle (already full!!!!)
    • camera
    • personal medicine

    If you want to take your own technical material with you: (otherwise rental equipment included in the price)

    • crampons: must fit the shoes and be easily adjustable, with vertical front teeth
    • climbing harness: always with adjustable leg loops
    • climbing helmet
    • ice axe: steep ice axe
    • screw carabines
    • backup device: reverso, ATC or similar

    details & insurance

    INCLUDED IN THE PRICE

    •     guidance and instruction by state-certified mountain and ski guides
    •     group equipment (ropes, ice screws, etc.)
    •     climbing harness, helmet, ice tools and crampons
    •     expenses of the mountain guide

    NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE

    •     travel to East Tyrol
    •     accommodation costs before, during or after the courses
    •     travel and cancellation insurance
    •     personal climbing apparel
    •     tip

    REGISTRATION AND GTCs

    Registration in advance is required for this course. You can call our office or register by e-mail.

    All participants must read and sign our general terms and conditions.

    You may register online here:

     

    register now